Innovation in skincare is as much about service and ease of use as it is about new ingredients, says Dermalogica CEO Aurelian Lis.
If a product isn’t pleasant to use, it’s going to sit on the shelf, he says.
“There’s a lot of miracles in the skincare industry, but in order for those miracles to work you do actually need to put it on your skin.”
For that reason, much of Dermalogica’s research is focussed on delivering proven ingredients more gently. The brand has just released Overnight Retinol Repair 1% ($198) which comes with a buffer cream to help skin adjust to the higher concentration.
Dermalogica also offer a 0.5 per cent retinol cream, which is better suited to more sensitive skin. The higher concentration isn’t sold online.
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“Because of the way it’s encapsulated, it’s a lot less irritating than other forms but at the same time it’s got the performance.”
“[It’s about] enhancing the power of our product with less irritation,” he says.
That said, Dermalogica is ramping up its new releases from two per year to four, and they’re not all looking at delivery. The brand’s Daily Superfoliant, made with that same activated charcoal we’ve been seeing everywhere, has proved popular, and Lis says he has a fair idea of what’s next.
“Skincare in general has been morphing over the years to more understanding of how the body regulates itself – accelerating the positive parts, and trying to decelerate the ones we’re not so excited about,” he says.
To that end, Lis says Dermalogica has been looking at microbiomes – “the helpful bacteria that lives on skin,” he explains.
“A lot of our consumers care about the healthy aspect of the things they put on their skin and about enhancing what the skin does normally,” Lis says.
“It seems reasonably obvious that it’s going to have fewer side effects rather than something quite aggressive.”
Lis also sees an increased focus on education in skincare. The modern customer wants more from her products, and he says the best way to get that is to visit a professional.
“She doesn’t have time for [a long routine]. She needs a few steps and each step has to be efficacious,” Lis says.
We’re paying attention, honestly. Lis came to Dermalogica from Benefit Cosmetics, which went from strength to strength under his leadership. He knows what’s going on.
What's next in skincare, according to Dermalogica CEO Aurelian Lis by: Pamela Hendrix published: